Custom Jedi
Costuming Requirements
Allowable Characters:
Approvable characters for Saber Guild must be consistent saber wielding characters, such as Jedi, Sith, Imperial Knights, or other consistent saber wielding characters.
Rebel or Resistance pilots, Imperial or First Order officers, clone troopers or Stormtroopers, or Mandalorian characters who do not wield lightsabers will not be approved as costumes for Saber Guild. Characters that have a one time appearance wielding a saber, or show only a cursory use of the Force in an inactive way, or only use the Force actively in a single instance will not be considered for approval (i.e., Hoth Han Solo, TLJ Leia, etc.).
Rebel or Resistance pilots, Imperial or First Order officers, clone troopers or Stormtroopers, or Mandalorian characters who do not wield lightsabers will not be approved as costumes for Saber Guild. Characters that have a one time appearance wielding a saber, or show only a cursory use of the Force in an inactive way, or only use the Force actively in a single instance will not be considered for approval (i.e., Hoth Han Solo, TLJ Leia, etc.).
One-time Use Characters and Costumes:
One-time show characters and Costumes may be approved on a case by case basis by the Global Council. Once approved by the Council for a specific show, they will not need to be approved for each performance. One time use Characters that include established Star Wars characters that normally do not use the Force or a Lightsaber such as Hera, Han Solo or Lando, or are generic characters such as Stormtroopers or Mandalorians should adhere to the standards of other LFL recognized groups. One time use Saber Using costumes will be evaluated on a case by case basis to make sure they fit either a specific scene from Star Wars, or fit with the Star Wars aesthetic.
Temples will also occasionally engage in charitable activities that encourage the inclusion of colors or accessories that are not generally approvable. A request must be sent to the Global Council, along with pictures of the intended costume change, for approval. Once those changes are approved for a specific event, they do not need to be approved again in the future for that specific event unless updated or modified. Costumes should still reflect current Saber Guild quality standards. The following is a list of things not needed to ask for permission on: Christmas Events -santa hats, candy cane saber, elf ears. Pride Events - Flower crowns, feather boas. This list will be updated as people submit ideas.
Temples will also occasionally engage in charitable activities that encourage the inclusion of colors or accessories that are not generally approvable. A request must be sent to the Global Council, along with pictures of the intended costume change, for approval. Once those changes are approved for a specific event, they do not need to be approved again in the future for that specific event unless updated or modified. Costumes should still reflect current Saber Guild quality standards. The following is a list of things not needed to ask for permission on: Christmas Events -santa hats, candy cane saber, elf ears. Pride Events - Flower crowns, feather boas. This list will be updated as people submit ideas.
3-Color Rule:
The under tunic, outer tunic or surcoat, obi, and tabards should not consist of more than three colors. Only one non-earth tone color (green, blue, purple, etc may be used in a Jedi costume (this doesn’t apply to Sith). For example, if you are using a dark blue for your tabards, you cannot use turquoise for the under tunic Sith Costumes must also be limited to three colors, though more than one non black/gray color may be used. Pants, boots and belt are not considered part of the 3-Color Rule. The color of trim, embroidery, beading, or inking does not count towards the 3-Color Rule, if it remains a highlight and not the major color of the tabards/tunic/under tunic. There can only be one color of trim to be used in a costume. (E.g. If red trim is used on a Sith tunic then only that same red trim can be used on the remaining pieces of the costume.)
Example of the use of the 3 color rule:
Example of an Approvable Costume:
- Brown (Pantone #1545) - Outer Tunic
- Dark Brown (Pantone #440) - Inner Tunic
- Green - (Pantone #574) Vest style Tabards with Brown (Pantone #1545) - Trim
- Green - (Pantone #574) Obi combination
Custom Jedi Color / Pantons Costume Requirements
Pantones:
We have created a pantone document with a spectrum of colors that encompass the approvable colors. All pantone numbers are based on the “coated” pantone system. In general, primary pantones apply to items such as outer tunics, robes, and accent colors for leather. Secondary pantones apply to items such as tabards, obi, and inner tunics. Trim pantones may only be used on trim, and may not be the primary color of any garment. All items permitted to be secondary pantones are also permitted to be primary pantones for the same faction. All items permitted to be trim pantones may also be primary or secondary pantones for the same faction.
Jedi Tunics Pantones:
Jedi tunics and other items which fall on the Jedi primary pantone are allowed to be shades of Brown, Tan, Cream, or Olive Drab. If you have any confusion about if a color is acceptable than have your Local Costume Consular check it with the Global Consulars.
Jedi Outer Tunic:
Jedi Tabards / Obi / Under Tunic:
Jedi Trim Only:
Fabrics:
Fabrics should be of a medium to heavy weight and high quality, and should appear textured. Natural fibers are strongly recommended over synthetics, and woven fabrics are strongly suggested over knits. The original costume design of Star Wars uses wools, raw silks, and a variety of other high quality woven fabrics for Jedi. That is the look which Saber Guild costumes should strive to emulate. The guides below are meant to assist you in picking fabrics, but are not comprehensive. Please consult with your LCC on fabric options, and if you have questions about a particular fabric, please have your LCC reach out to the GCCs.
The following Fabrics that have regularly been approved include:
** = This is generally only approved for tabards and obi
*** = This can only be approved for an obi if it matches the tabards, and must not have animal embossing/print
The following fabrics have occasionally been approved, but should be checked with the GCCs before being used:
Please note that any fabric that looks too thin or smooth, such as light broadcloth or thin polyesters (like those used for mass produced bagged costumes for Halloween) will be rejected. Consistently rejected fabrics include vinyl that does not look like leather, quilter’s cotton, kona cotton, flannel, light broadcloth, taffeta, velvet, satine, and satin. However, variants on these fabrics can occasionally be approved. Please consult with the GCCs for possible exceptions on these fabrics.
Fabric that is not listed on the charts above as suitable should be presented to the GCCs for approval PRIOR to purchase.
The following Fabrics that have regularly been approved include:
- Linen and Linen Blends (Hopsack, Suiting, Twill, Muslin)
- Silk (Tusseh, Noile)
- Cotton and Cotton Blends (Canvas, Duck, Suiting, Osnaburg, Crinkle Gauze*, Twill, Tapestry**, Monkscloth **)
- Leather (Garment-weight ** &***)
- Hemp (Muslin, Canvas **)
- Wool (Twill)
** = This is generally only approved for tabards and obi
*** = This can only be approved for an obi if it matches the tabards, and must not have animal embossing/print
The following fabrics have occasionally been approved, but should be checked with the GCCs before being used:
- Linen and Linen Blends (Sheeting)
- Silk (Velveteen)
- Cotton and Cotton Blends (Muslin, Corduroy, Heavy Broadcloth, Bubble Gauze)
- Leather (Suede)
- Polyester and other Synthetics (Microsuede, Suiting, Twill, Pleather, Corduroy, Velveteen)
Please note that any fabric that looks too thin or smooth, such as light broadcloth or thin polyesters (like those used for mass produced bagged costumes for Halloween) will be rejected. Consistently rejected fabrics include vinyl that does not look like leather, quilter’s cotton, kona cotton, flannel, light broadcloth, taffeta, velvet, satine, and satin. However, variants on these fabrics can occasionally be approved. Please consult with the GCCs for possible exceptions on these fabrics.
Fabric that is not listed on the charts above as suitable should be presented to the GCCs for approval PRIOR to purchase.
Outer tunics:
Outer tunics may be colors from the primary pantones. The outer tunic must be long enough to at minimum cover the groin and rear, though it may be longer. Full length tunics should not drag on the floor and should be hemmed at least a couple of inches off the ground so that they do not present a tripping hazard. Ankle length is a safe choice for choreography. Tunic should not appear to pull too tight on either side, and should not notably bunch or pucker due to pulling. The bottom of the “V” where the front of the tabard crosses over should fall notably above the obi. Tunic fit should be adjusted to fit the applicant’s body type. Tunics may cross either left over right or right over left (though left over right is recommended (wearer’s left and right). However, outer tunic and inner tunic should cross the same way. There must be no visible vertical seam down the back of the outer tunic. Outer tunics may have slits up the sides or up the back for mobility. However, these slits must not expose the groin or rear, and must not split the tunic skirt into more than 2-3 sections total. These slits should go no higher than the obi. How high these slits start is the effective length of the tunic for determining whether or not leggings are permitted.
Outer tunics may have hood. The hood of an outer tunic should have the same appearance as a hood on a cloak/robe in shape and construction. Outer tunics may have; full sleeves, three quarter length sleeves, or be sleeveless. Full length sleeves must reach past the wrist but not exceed the first knuckle in the hand when arms are held out to the sides at a 45 degree angle and with arms straight (no bend at the elbow). Three- quarter length sleeves and sleeveless tunics must be used with appropriate arm wraps, armlets, gloves, or bracers. These armwraps / armlets / gloves / bracers can either be over the cuff of the sleeve so you do not see the end of the sleeve, or under the sleeve so long as the wrap, glove, or armlet reaches the wrist of the arm.
Sleeve seams should be on the underside of the arm, and not visible along the sleeve. Shoulder seams (for sleeved tunics) or hems (for sleeveless tunics) should rest at the shoulder rather than extending down the bicep.
Outer tunics may have hood. The hood of an outer tunic should have the same appearance as a hood on a cloak/robe in shape and construction. Outer tunics may have; full sleeves, three quarter length sleeves, or be sleeveless. Full length sleeves must reach past the wrist but not exceed the first knuckle in the hand when arms are held out to the sides at a 45 degree angle and with arms straight (no bend at the elbow). Three- quarter length sleeves and sleeveless tunics must be used with appropriate arm wraps, armlets, gloves, or bracers. These armwraps / armlets / gloves / bracers can either be over the cuff of the sleeve so you do not see the end of the sleeve, or under the sleeve so long as the wrap, glove, or armlet reaches the wrist of the arm.
Sleeve seams should be on the underside of the arm, and not visible along the sleeve. Shoulder seams (for sleeved tunics) or hems (for sleeveless tunics) should rest at the shoulder rather than extending down the bicep.
Inner tunics:
Inner tunics may colors from the secondary pantones. They may have one of three styles of collar: Traditional, Mandarin, and Mock Turtleneck. They can either be full sleeved or a dickey that mimics the look. If done as a dickey, they should give the appearance of being a full under tunic, though visible undersleeves are not necessary unless specific to a character. Please note that band collars (i.e. standing collars similar to Mandarin collars, but which do not meet in middle) are not permitted. Inner tunics are permitted to have hoods so long as they are used with an outer tunic that does not have a hood. As with hoods on outer tunics, the appearance of the hood should be similar to that of a Jedi robe. If using a commercially produced shirt as an inner tunic with a sleeveless outer tunic or three-quarter sleeve outer tunic, remember that the cuffs should be covered with either arm wraps or gloves. There should be no visible t-shirt style or knit style cuffs on the under tunic.
While knits are permitted for inner tunics which are commercially produced shirts, Under Armor and other athletic training turtlenecks are not allowed due to them being a high sheen fabric.
While knits are permitted for inner tunics which are commercially produced shirts, Under Armor and other athletic training turtlenecks are not allowed due to them being a high sheen fabric.
High-Low Tunics (Optional):
Both outer and Inner Tunics are permitted to have high-low hems. For tunics that are of a highlow design (e.g. the hem of the back of the tunic is longer than the front) it is acceptable for the rear tabards to run to the rear hem, instead of being equal length with the front tabards. It's also acceptable for them to go below the hem in the back if it's by the same amount as in the front.
Examples of High-Low Tunics:
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Trousers / Pants / Leggings / Skirts:
Trousers and Pants:
Trousers, pants, and skirts may be colors from the secondary pantones. Trousers and pants should not have visible pockets or tool pouches/holders. Trousers should sit at the waist (so any pockets present are not visible), and be of a relaxed fit. They should not blouse out excessively over the tops of the boots when tucked in. Denim is not an acceptable material for pants except for canon characters, where applicable.
Leggings:
To wear leggings your tunic or your skirt should fall to at least 2 inches above your knees. Leggings must be of opaque fabric, of high quality, and not see through whatsoever, including where the fabric stretches over the knees. Under Armor or athletic pants with a shiny finish are not an acceptable choice for leggings. Leggings should not have any visible logos or patterns.
Skirts:
Skirts should hang below the top of the boot and are allowed to extend up to the ankle. Skirts should not drag on the floor, as this presents a tripping hazard--ankle length is a safe length for choreography. Skirts should sit at the waist, and waistline should be covered by the obi.
Skirts may have up to two slits on the front and back or on the sides (but not both). The high point of these slights should be no higher than the low hip (i.e. the length required to cover the rear and groin).
Miniskirts, “hot pants”, or short shorts are not permitted. Skirts should be made of similar materials as that of the rest of the costume. Denim is not an acceptable material for skirts.
Trousers, pants, and skirts may be colors from the secondary pantones. Trousers and pants should not have visible pockets or tool pouches/holders. Trousers should sit at the waist (so any pockets present are not visible), and be of a relaxed fit. They should not blouse out excessively over the tops of the boots when tucked in. Denim is not an acceptable material for pants except for canon characters, where applicable.
Leggings:
To wear leggings your tunic or your skirt should fall to at least 2 inches above your knees. Leggings must be of opaque fabric, of high quality, and not see through whatsoever, including where the fabric stretches over the knees. Under Armor or athletic pants with a shiny finish are not an acceptable choice for leggings. Leggings should not have any visible logos or patterns.
Skirts:
Skirts should hang below the top of the boot and are allowed to extend up to the ankle. Skirts should not drag on the floor, as this presents a tripping hazard--ankle length is a safe length for choreography. Skirts should sit at the waist, and waistline should be covered by the obi.
Skirts may have up to two slits on the front and back or on the sides (but not both). The high point of these slights should be no higher than the low hip (i.e. the length required to cover the rear and groin).
Miniskirts, “hot pants”, or short shorts are not permitted. Skirts should be made of similar materials as that of the rest of the costume. Denim is not an acceptable material for skirts.
Tabards:
Traditional Tabards:
Tabards may be colors from the secondary pantones. Tabards in the front should hang down at least to the hem of the outer tunic but can hang down to about 2-3” past the tunic hem in a standard-length tunic (i.e. lower thigh length). There are five approvable tabard styles: standard shoulder tabards, shoulder tabards with an apron tabard, vest tabards, scarf tabards, and hybrid tabards. Standard shoulder tabards should be worn vertically and not cross in anyway either in the front or back of the costume. Similarly, vest tabards, scarf tabards, and hybrid tabards should not cross in the front. For standard shoulder tabards, vest tabards, scarf tabards, and hybrid tabards, the right and left sides must be the same length in front and back. For long tunics (reaching to upper knee or beyond), for inner tunics that are longer than outer tunics, all types of tabards can be up to 2-3” longer than the longest of outer tunic, inner tunic, and skirt if desired. However, they must not present a tripping hazard, and must be hemmed at least a couple of inches off the ground. In cases where on outer tunic or inner tunic is at least calflength, or where the applicant is wearing an at least calf-length skirt, tabards may end at or below the knee instead of extending all the way to the hem.
For all tabard types (with the exception of hybrid), the tabard may either end at the obi in the back or follow the same length rules as the front (in the case of hybrid style tabards, the tabards must extend beyond the obi in the rear). If the tabards extend past the obi in the rear, then they should end evenly with the tabards in the front and not be of different length (except in cases of a high low tunic - please see the tunic section for details). At the shoulder, all tabards must not extend significantly past the shoulder, and must not hang off the edge of the shoulder towards the arm. The width of the tabards should be proportional to the wearer.
Tabards should be attached with velcro, snaps, magnets, or button stitch to the outer tunic. This will prevent the tabards from falling off the shoulder during a performance. The obi and tabards should complement the rest of the costume in aesthetic and color.
The ends of tabards may be rectangular, angled, or chevron shapes (or gently rounded versions of these shapes). For angled and chevron-shaped ends, length requirements will be judged from the average tabard length, though the longest point must still be at least 2” off the ground for safety.
Apron Style Tabards:
This style of tabard starts off as a normal set of tabards at the shoulder above the obi, angled inward towards the obi, and then becomes one piece below the obi. An apron tabard may be constructed by combining the lower sections of the shoulder tabards, or by constructing a separate apron section below the obi. The lower section may be rectangular or come to a point. Apron style tabards can be worn in both the front of the costume and the rear of the costume.
Scarf Style Tabards:
Scarf Style tabards involve a single piece of fabric that hangs around the neck and drops down on either side to give the appearance of a tabard in the front. This style is best seen with Tatooine Luke’s tabards in Return of the Jedi, or Agen Kolar in Attack of the Clones. The tabard is constructed similarly to a liturgical stole, and should rest smoothly around the shoulders and the back of the shoulders where they meet the neck without bunching up. Please note that scarf tabards constructed as one straight rectangle of fabric will not rest smoothly, and will not be approved.
Vest Style Tabards:
Vest style tabards must meet all stated rules for minimum length, but are exempt from most rules about maximum length. However, they must still be hemmed at least a couple of inches off the ground so as not present a tripping. Ankle length is a safe length for choreography. Unlike regular tabards, vest-style tabards should not end at the obi in the back and should instead continue at least to the hem of the tunic. Vest-style tabards must have a clearly defined split in the front so they do still appear to be tabards. This style of tabard must have a solid back and may either completely wrap around the body as a solid piece of fabric, or have a split on the side. Vest style tabards may have an attached hood (unless they are made of leather or leatherlike material), no collar or an upright collar. As with hooded tunics, the hood of vest tabards should be similar to that of a Jedi robe in construction.
Hybrid Style Tabards:
Hydrid style tabards follow rules for vest tabards from the waist up, and rules for standard tabards from the waist down. They must have a solid back and may either completely wrap around the body as a solid piece of fabric, or have a split on the side. Below the obi, they split into two sections which are subject to the length and shape restrictions of standard tabards. Like a vest tabard, they must be made of the same fabric above and below the waist. Note that hybrid style tabards may not end at the waist in the back, as this is indistinguishable from a vest tabard ending at the waist, which is not permitted.
Surcoats:
The Surcoat can be seen on Ki-Adi Mundi and Sarrissa Jeng in the Geonosis Arena. A surcoat may be worn over the outer tunic for both Jedi and Sith, must have a hood, and should be closed in some capacity in the front, though no visible fastener should exist. The surcoat must be constructed so that it is capable of covering the whole torso, even if it worn partially open above the obi. Tabards must still be worn either over or under the surcoat, as the surcoat is not a replacement for either tabards or a tunic. Surcoats function as an optional accessory, as all normal costume elements are still required. Surcoats may be colors from primary pantones.
Embellishments:
Designs on fabric should look like a Star Wars Universe design and should only be used for the tabard/obi. All designs should be pre-approved by the GCCs before construction begins. Please supply the Consulars with reference when adding design to your fabric. If you create your own designs on fabric, make sure your lines are clean, well defined, and that the fabric underneath the design isn’t visible. Fabric paint can be used, though it should be dark enough that it stands out, and that the design is clear. Applique is also encouraged, and embroidery will help give the design more definition and depth. Beading, or inking may also be used to add details to the tabards. Jedi designs for stitching, embroidery, or beading should not be gaudy or flashy to show expense. Jedi costumes are modest and humble and are not traditionally extravagant (no bedazzling). Sith embellishments may be slightly more flamboyant, but are still expected to be reasonably unobtrusive. Embellishments must fit into the Star Wars universe. As such, they must not look gothic medieval, or earthbound in design. Designs are strongly recommended to be geometric and must not contain a floral pattern. No heraldry markings are permitted (i.e., Sith Sun, Jedi symbol, Imperial Cog, First Order Black Sun, or any animals).
Tabards may be colors from the secondary pantones. Tabards in the front should hang down at least to the hem of the outer tunic but can hang down to about 2-3” past the tunic hem in a standard-length tunic (i.e. lower thigh length). There are five approvable tabard styles: standard shoulder tabards, shoulder tabards with an apron tabard, vest tabards, scarf tabards, and hybrid tabards. Standard shoulder tabards should be worn vertically and not cross in anyway either in the front or back of the costume. Similarly, vest tabards, scarf tabards, and hybrid tabards should not cross in the front. For standard shoulder tabards, vest tabards, scarf tabards, and hybrid tabards, the right and left sides must be the same length in front and back. For long tunics (reaching to upper knee or beyond), for inner tunics that are longer than outer tunics, all types of tabards can be up to 2-3” longer than the longest of outer tunic, inner tunic, and skirt if desired. However, they must not present a tripping hazard, and must be hemmed at least a couple of inches off the ground. In cases where on outer tunic or inner tunic is at least calflength, or where the applicant is wearing an at least calf-length skirt, tabards may end at or below the knee instead of extending all the way to the hem.
For all tabard types (with the exception of hybrid), the tabard may either end at the obi in the back or follow the same length rules as the front (in the case of hybrid style tabards, the tabards must extend beyond the obi in the rear). If the tabards extend past the obi in the rear, then they should end evenly with the tabards in the front and not be of different length (except in cases of a high low tunic - please see the tunic section for details). At the shoulder, all tabards must not extend significantly past the shoulder, and must not hang off the edge of the shoulder towards the arm. The width of the tabards should be proportional to the wearer.
Tabards should be attached with velcro, snaps, magnets, or button stitch to the outer tunic. This will prevent the tabards from falling off the shoulder during a performance. The obi and tabards should complement the rest of the costume in aesthetic and color.
The ends of tabards may be rectangular, angled, or chevron shapes (or gently rounded versions of these shapes). For angled and chevron-shaped ends, length requirements will be judged from the average tabard length, though the longest point must still be at least 2” off the ground for safety.
Apron Style Tabards:
This style of tabard starts off as a normal set of tabards at the shoulder above the obi, angled inward towards the obi, and then becomes one piece below the obi. An apron tabard may be constructed by combining the lower sections of the shoulder tabards, or by constructing a separate apron section below the obi. The lower section may be rectangular or come to a point. Apron style tabards can be worn in both the front of the costume and the rear of the costume.
Scarf Style Tabards:
Scarf Style tabards involve a single piece of fabric that hangs around the neck and drops down on either side to give the appearance of a tabard in the front. This style is best seen with Tatooine Luke’s tabards in Return of the Jedi, or Agen Kolar in Attack of the Clones. The tabard is constructed similarly to a liturgical stole, and should rest smoothly around the shoulders and the back of the shoulders where they meet the neck without bunching up. Please note that scarf tabards constructed as one straight rectangle of fabric will not rest smoothly, and will not be approved.
Vest Style Tabards:
Vest style tabards must meet all stated rules for minimum length, but are exempt from most rules about maximum length. However, they must still be hemmed at least a couple of inches off the ground so as not present a tripping. Ankle length is a safe length for choreography. Unlike regular tabards, vest-style tabards should not end at the obi in the back and should instead continue at least to the hem of the tunic. Vest-style tabards must have a clearly defined split in the front so they do still appear to be tabards. This style of tabard must have a solid back and may either completely wrap around the body as a solid piece of fabric, or have a split on the side. Vest style tabards may have an attached hood (unless they are made of leather or leatherlike material), no collar or an upright collar. As with hooded tunics, the hood of vest tabards should be similar to that of a Jedi robe in construction.
Hybrid Style Tabards:
Hydrid style tabards follow rules for vest tabards from the waist up, and rules for standard tabards from the waist down. They must have a solid back and may either completely wrap around the body as a solid piece of fabric, or have a split on the side. Below the obi, they split into two sections which are subject to the length and shape restrictions of standard tabards. Like a vest tabard, they must be made of the same fabric above and below the waist. Note that hybrid style tabards may not end at the waist in the back, as this is indistinguishable from a vest tabard ending at the waist, which is not permitted.
Surcoats:
The Surcoat can be seen on Ki-Adi Mundi and Sarrissa Jeng in the Geonosis Arena. A surcoat may be worn over the outer tunic for both Jedi and Sith, must have a hood, and should be closed in some capacity in the front, though no visible fastener should exist. The surcoat must be constructed so that it is capable of covering the whole torso, even if it worn partially open above the obi. Tabards must still be worn either over or under the surcoat, as the surcoat is not a replacement for either tabards or a tunic. Surcoats function as an optional accessory, as all normal costume elements are still required. Surcoats may be colors from primary pantones.
Embellishments:
Designs on fabric should look like a Star Wars Universe design and should only be used for the tabard/obi. All designs should be pre-approved by the GCCs before construction begins. Please supply the Consulars with reference when adding design to your fabric. If you create your own designs on fabric, make sure your lines are clean, well defined, and that the fabric underneath the design isn’t visible. Fabric paint can be used, though it should be dark enough that it stands out, and that the design is clear. Applique is also encouraged, and embroidery will help give the design more definition and depth. Beading, or inking may also be used to add details to the tabards. Jedi designs for stitching, embroidery, or beading should not be gaudy or flashy to show expense. Jedi costumes are modest and humble and are not traditionally extravagant (no bedazzling). Sith embellishments may be slightly more flamboyant, but are still expected to be reasonably unobtrusive. Embellishments must fit into the Star Wars universe. As such, they must not look gothic medieval, or earthbound in design. Designs are strongly recommended to be geometric and must not contain a floral pattern. No heraldry markings are permitted (i.e., Sith Sun, Jedi symbol, Imperial Cog, First Order Black Sun, or any animals).
Example of patterned tabard:
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Obi:
Obis may be colors from the secondary pantones. The obi should extend all the way around the body at or nearly at the natural waist, with no visible fasteners. It may be up to 6 inches wider than the belt (3.5 inches above and below) excluding trim. This allows for any natural crinkling that may occur on the obi to take place without it bunching around the belt. The obi may be narrower than this so long as it is clearly visible both above and below the belt all the way around the body. The obi may also be cut wide on a bias in order to crinkle down to an approvable width. Crinkling is a permitted type of embellishment on obis. If an applicant is having problems with an obi sagging, and obi may be stiffened with a layer of duck cloth, interface, or plastic embroidery mesh sewn inside.
Example of a proper Obi:
Belts:
Belts should be made of leather or hard pleather which gives the appearance of leather, and should be colored to work with the costume and the pouches on the belt. They need to be firm, and not appear to be wavering while worn or let the edges crinkle. Jedi may have brown belts, while Sith are allowed black or red. For prequel style belts, the inner (narrower) belt may be Primary Pantone colors. Metal work on all belts may be silver, antique bronze, copper, gold (bright brass), or gunmetal.
The belt should rest at the natural waist and should rest straight and parallel the ground. It should not be worn down on the hips or skewed to one side. Belts should be able to support a lightsaber without pulling it down. Please note that many cheap vinyl belts available online are not capable of supporting a saber’s weight, so please check before submitting a costume with one of these. Belts using velcro to secure the rear of the belt closed should be reinforced with snaps or other hidden fasteners to prevent the belt from coming undone during choreography.
Original Trilogy Style Belt
For OT style belts please make sure the width of the belt is at least 2” wide. The belt should be made specifically to the applicant’s size or designed to allow the excess part of the strap to be hidden behind the rest of the belt. There should be few, if any visible belt holes. Buckles on OT style belts should either be Rectangular, Oval, or Octagonal in shape and should be proportional to the width of the belt. No food capsules are needed for original trilogy style belts.
The belt should rest at the natural waist and should rest straight and parallel the ground. It should not be worn down on the hips or skewed to one side. Belts should be able to support a lightsaber without pulling it down. Please note that many cheap vinyl belts available online are not capable of supporting a saber’s weight, so please check before submitting a costume with one of these. Belts using velcro to secure the rear of the belt closed should be reinforced with snaps or other hidden fasteners to prevent the belt from coming undone during choreography.
Original Trilogy Style Belt
For OT style belts please make sure the width of the belt is at least 2” wide. The belt should be made specifically to the applicant’s size or designed to allow the excess part of the strap to be hidden behind the rest of the belt. There should be few, if any visible belt holes. Buckles on OT style belts should either be Rectangular, Oval, or Octagonal in shape and should be proportional to the width of the belt. No food capsules are needed for original trilogy style belts.
Prequel Style Belt
Prequel style belts should be roughly 2-3 inches wide, accounting for body type, and have a thinner belt running down the middle of the larger belt. The inner (narrower) belt should have a buckle/fastener in the middle that appears to be metallic, and secured with two sets of metal studs to the left and right of the fastener. Studs should be metallic and should be rounded. No spike-like studs are allowed on Prequel style belts. The inner belt should appear to be continuous . Prequel style belts must have a keeper or pouch on the back to cover where the belt is secured so the ends and any fasteners are not visible. A minimum of four food capsules are needed and no more than twelve is allowed, and they must be in even amounts of four, six, eight, ten or twelve. These belts are permitted in appropriate colors for both Sith and Jedi. The inner belts of may be a contrasting color from the outer belt, as long as all colors are from the primary pantone for their faction.
Prequel style belts should be roughly 2-3 inches wide, accounting for body type, and have a thinner belt running down the middle of the larger belt. The inner (narrower) belt should have a buckle/fastener in the middle that appears to be metallic, and secured with two sets of metal studs to the left and right of the fastener. Studs should be metallic and should be rounded. No spike-like studs are allowed on Prequel style belts. The inner belt should appear to be continuous . Prequel style belts must have a keeper or pouch on the back to cover where the belt is secured so the ends and any fasteners are not visible. A minimum of four food capsules are needed and no more than twelve is allowed, and they must be in even amounts of four, six, eight, ten or twelve. These belts are permitted in appropriate colors for both Sith and Jedi. The inner belts of may be a contrasting color from the outer belt, as long as all colors are from the primary pantone for their faction.
Combo Style Belt
Combo belts are allowed that combines a PT style belt with an OT style belt buckle. This is a 3 inch wide belt that has an OT style buckle in the middle. The edges of the buckle should be at least 3/4ths the size of the larger belt. Luke Skywalker’s Belt from The Force Awakens is an example of this design, and is allowed for both Jedi and Sith in appropriate colors.
Combo belts are allowed that combines a PT style belt with an OT style belt buckle. This is a 3 inch wide belt that has an OT style buckle in the middle. The edges of the buckle should be at least 3/4ths the size of the larger belt. Luke Skywalker’s Belt from The Force Awakens is an example of this design, and is allowed for both Jedi and Sith in appropriate colors.
Imperial Knight Belts
Imperial Knight Belts are permitted for both Sith and Jedi, and follow the standard color and material rules for Jedi and Sith belts. These belts are three layers. The widest layer lays closest to the skin and goes all the way around the body. It may be either one continuous width or have a point on the bottom. The width of this layer should be proportionate to the applicant. The middle layer is one continuous width, narrower than the first layer, and ends in shallow points on either side of the buckle. There should be a notable gap between pointed ends of the middle layers and the buckle. The final layer is about an inch wide, goes all the way around the body, and weaves through slots in the middle layer on either side of the buckle. It may be riveted to the middle layer. The buckle is unadorned metal, rectangular in shape, and is roughly the same width as the middle layer. A keeper is using the back. Please note that, when worn, no belt ends should be visible on the widest or narrowest layers (all ends for these belts should be hidden under the keeper or buckle).
NOTE: An Imperial greeblie on the belt buckle is not permitted unless the costume is being submitted under the Inquisitor Template.
Imperial Knight Belts are permitted for both Sith and Jedi, and follow the standard color and material rules for Jedi and Sith belts. These belts are three layers. The widest layer lays closest to the skin and goes all the way around the body. It may be either one continuous width or have a point on the bottom. The width of this layer should be proportionate to the applicant. The middle layer is one continuous width, narrower than the first layer, and ends in shallow points on either side of the buckle. There should be a notable gap between pointed ends of the middle layers and the buckle. The final layer is about an inch wide, goes all the way around the body, and weaves through slots in the middle layer on either side of the buckle. It may be riveted to the middle layer. The buckle is unadorned metal, rectangular in shape, and is roughly the same width as the middle layer. A keeper is using the back. Please note that, when worn, no belt ends should be visible on the widest or narrowest layers (all ends for these belts should be hidden under the keeper or buckle).
NOTE: An Imperial greeblie on the belt buckle is not permitted unless the costume is being submitted under the Inquisitor Template.
Belt clips:
All belts should have either a prequel style covertec clip or OT style lightsaber hanger in their belts. If using the OT style hanger, the accompanying lightsaber should have the appropriate D Ring on it. The number of clips on an applicant’s belt have should not be more than the number of sabers they carry. All clips must be combat safe and not resemble items from earth cultures or other non-Star-Wars intellectual property.
Pouches:
Pouches should be formed and made of thicker leather. Resin pouches may be accepted if they are constructed to appear as leather or leather-like and have a secure method of attachment to avoid safety issues (i.e., durable, well-situated clips so that they are secured to the belt at a proper height). The leather must not have animal embossing or print (such as snakeskin or eel skin). Foam, canvas, or other materials will not be approved. Pouches with plastic clips, elastic sides, ren-faire style lacing, or open spaces in the bottom corners will not be approved. Pouches should not look earthbound or from another genre (medieval or Ren Faire types). Any embossing or other decorations should be minimal and should be pre-approved by the GCCs.
Snaps or other metallic closures should be subdued by painting the metallic feature. Allowable colors for pouches are the same as allowable colors for belts for both Sith and Jedi.
To clarify how these rules translate to existing pouches, examples of approvable and unapprovable pouches are included below.
Snaps or other metallic closures should be subdued by painting the metallic feature. Allowable colors for pouches are the same as allowable colors for belts for both Sith and Jedi.
To clarify how these rules translate to existing pouches, examples of approvable and unapprovable pouches are included below.
Approvable Pouches:
If you are going to look for handcuff pouches, try to find a more generic version. Metallic snaps should be subdued with paint. The below two handcuff pouches would be approved.
Note: All metallic snap should be subdued.
Pouches that would get rejected:
These pouches are flat and “Ren Faire Like” and are not approved for use.
While not flat, these two examples are poorly constructed or are made from poorly constructed materials and will not be approved. Furthermore, the set on the right does not appear leather or leather-like and has an unnatural seam that ruins its aesthetic.
Handcuff pouches can look too earthbound and embossing is usually not approved for use.
Additional Belt Accessories (Optional):
Applicants are permitted to add up to two optional belt accessories from the approved list below with local approval from their LCC. Additional items, or items not appearing on this list, must be submitted to the GCCs for approval. Please note that blasters are not approvable even as optional accessories.
Approved items include:
Approved items include:
- Droid callers
- Commlinks
- Holocrons
- Extra pouches
- Prequel style rebreathers
- Extra lightsaber hilts beyond one (for single wielders) or two (for dual-wielders)
Boots:
Boots should not have visible laces, logos, embellishments, or fringes. Boots should reach to a height between the base of the calf and the knee. The shaft should be of similar height at the front and back of the boot, though some different between inner and outer heights similar to traditional riding boots is permitted. There should not be any significant gaps in the tops of the boots. Fold over top boots like those worn by Mace Windu and Ki Adi Mundi may be acceptable as long as the cuff is even across the boot, though fold-over should be pre-approved by the GCCs to ensure they don’t have a “pirate-like” appearance. Boots should fit closely to the leg without significant ruching, bunching, or sagging.
Boots should appear to be of relatively smooth leather with no nap or animal embossing/print. Boots may be shades of brown for Jedi (and should be approximately the same shade as the belt), and black for Sith. Elastic should be restricted to the back or inside of the boot, and can take up to 25% of the boot’s total area. Any elastic should also match the color of the boot.
Boots may have up to three straps and three simple buckles, though covering buckles with leather keepers like those seen on Obi-Wan’s boots is recommend. For safety during performances, boots with more than a two-inch heel will not be approved. Zippers and zipperpulls should be the same color as the boot or subdued, and may be painted to reduce visibility. Zippers are only approvable on the inner side and the back of the boot.
If straps and spats are used, they must be the same color and shade as the boot, and must appear to be the same material.. Spats should be secured tightly to the leg to prevent flapping. Velcro may be used to accomplish this, though the velcro should not be visible when the boot is worn. In general, spats should only be used to cover unapprovable details, rather than to make a boot which is too short appear to be regulation height. Spats for height are only permitted where they appear to be part of the boot.
To clarify how these rules translate to actual boots, examples of approvable and unapprovable boots are included below.
Boots should appear to be of relatively smooth leather with no nap or animal embossing/print. Boots may be shades of brown for Jedi (and should be approximately the same shade as the belt), and black for Sith. Elastic should be restricted to the back or inside of the boot, and can take up to 25% of the boot’s total area. Any elastic should also match the color of the boot.
Boots may have up to three straps and three simple buckles, though covering buckles with leather keepers like those seen on Obi-Wan’s boots is recommend. For safety during performances, boots with more than a two-inch heel will not be approved. Zippers and zipperpulls should be the same color as the boot or subdued, and may be painted to reduce visibility. Zippers are only approvable on the inner side and the back of the boot.
If straps and spats are used, they must be the same color and shade as the boot, and must appear to be the same material.. Spats should be secured tightly to the leg to prevent flapping. Velcro may be used to accomplish this, though the velcro should not be visible when the boot is worn. In general, spats should only be used to cover unapprovable details, rather than to make a boot which is too short appear to be regulation height. Spats for height are only permitted where they appear to be part of the boot.
To clarify how these rules translate to actual boots, examples of approvable and unapprovable boots are included below.
Approvable Boots:
Unapprovable Boot Examples:
These boots may be tall enough, but they are thin leather and the leather bunches.
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These boots have a fold that are not even. These are pirate boots and not Sith or Jedi boots in the style of Ki-Adi Mundi or Mace Windu.
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While this style of strap is acceptable on the picture on the left, in excess it can make for a goth look. Also the lifts are unsafe for choreography.
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Use of Face Character Boots:
Several exceptions may be made to the above boot rules in the case of boot styles worn by specific face characters.
Kylo Ren style boots are acceptable for use by both Sith and Jedi in appropriate colors and are the one exception to the “No more than 3 straps/buckles” rule for boots.
Hero Rey boots from The Last Jedi are acceptable for use by both Sith and Jedi in appropriate colors, in spite of violating the “no visible laces” rule. If these are used, the laces must match the boots in color. Any boots of this style must have the laces in the back. Laces on the sides or the front will still not be acceptable.
Maul Boots - Sith are allowed to use the same boots Darth Maul uses. However, they must be the same brand with the back tag removed. No other motorcycle boots are permitted, nor are engineering boots.
Qui Gon Boots - Qui Gon style boots are acceptable for use by both Sith and Jedi in appropriate colors and are the one exception to the “No more than 3 straps/buckles” rule for boots.
Kylo Ren style boots are acceptable for use by both Sith and Jedi in appropriate colors and are the one exception to the “No more than 3 straps/buckles” rule for boots.
Hero Rey boots from The Last Jedi are acceptable for use by both Sith and Jedi in appropriate colors, in spite of violating the “no visible laces” rule. If these are used, the laces must match the boots in color. Any boots of this style must have the laces in the back. Laces on the sides or the front will still not be acceptable.
Maul Boots - Sith are allowed to use the same boots Darth Maul uses. However, they must be the same brand with the back tag removed. No other motorcycle boots are permitted, nor are engineering boots.
Qui Gon Boots - Qui Gon style boots are acceptable for use by both Sith and Jedi in appropriate colors and are the one exception to the “No more than 3 straps/buckles” rule for boots.
Kylo Ren Boots
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Rey "Hero" boots
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Qui Gon Boots
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Maul Boots
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Wrapped Boots:
Boots are covered with thick layers of wraps which may cover the entire shaft of the boots, and may wrap around the foot as well. The wraps should be made of the list of approvable materials, similar to arm wraps. The color of the wraps should match the boot color or be similar to the major colors of the inner tunic, outer tunic, or upper tabards of the costume. Boot wraps may be colors from secondary pantones if they are matching other colors of the costume.
Wraps may go up to the top of the boot, but may not visibly cross over the top seam of the boot (i.e. they must be flush with the top of the boot and not cover any part of the leg). The wraps must be secured so as not to come undone during a performance. For boots with heels, wraps may go around the foot of the boot, but must be snug and held securely in place to prevent any tripping hazard. Also, they must not create a grip issue along the underside (sole) of the boot. Velcro, snaps or stitching directly to the boot is recommended to secure wraps, but fastenings must not be visible. Buckles, laces or elastic from the original boot should be hidden by the wraps.
Boots are covered with thick layers of wraps which may cover the entire shaft of the boots, and may wrap around the foot as well. The wraps should be made of the list of approvable materials, similar to arm wraps. The color of the wraps should match the boot color or be similar to the major colors of the inner tunic, outer tunic, or upper tabards of the costume. Boot wraps may be colors from secondary pantones if they are matching other colors of the costume.
Wraps may go up to the top of the boot, but may not visibly cross over the top seam of the boot (i.e. they must be flush with the top of the boot and not cover any part of the leg). The wraps must be secured so as not to come undone during a performance. For boots with heels, wraps may go around the foot of the boot, but must be snug and held securely in place to prevent any tripping hazard. Also, they must not create a grip issue along the underside (sole) of the boot. Velcro, snaps or stitching directly to the boot is recommended to secure wraps, but fastenings must not be visible. Buckles, laces or elastic from the original boot should be hidden by the wraps.
Heraldry:
As a rule, heraldry markings are not permitted (Sith Sun, Jedi symbol, Imperial Cog, First Order Black Sun, or any animals). There are specific exceptions to this general rule outlined in this document (lightsabers and specific armor styles). All other symbols, if they are not an instantly recognizable Star Wars symbols, such as the Jedi Logo, Imperial Cog, Sith Symbol etc., should be cleared with the GCCs and will be approved on a case by case basis by the GCCs.
Lightsabers:
Lightsabers should be combat ready, able to securely hold the blade style of choice of the Temple, and not easily break during choreography. Please see your LCC and LD for suggestions on what saber brands are and are not acceptable as there are a lot on the market. Jedi colors include various shades of the following: Blue, Green, Purple, Yellow, Amber. Pink is not an acceptable shade of purple, however. Black is restricted to the Dark Saber and not allowed for either side. Silver/White are not permitted for Jedi and should be used only for canon characters that wield them (Ahsoka, Imperial Knights). Red and Blood Orange are the only colors approved for Sith unless a canon character wields another color (Revan). These colors are not allowed for Jedi.
Additional details such as leather or cloth wraps, o-rings, may be added to the saber if it keeps the Star Wars universe aesthetic. Lightsabers may also have Jedi Order or Sith Sun symbols etched onto them. Any other requested design should be cleared through the Global Costume Consulars, though some designs such as animals and creatures will not be permitted. Imperial Cogs should only be added to characters working as Inquisitors for the Empire.
Additional details such as leather or cloth wraps, o-rings, may be added to the saber if it keeps the Star Wars universe aesthetic. Lightsabers may also have Jedi Order or Sith Sun symbols etched onto them. Any other requested design should be cleared through the Global Costume Consulars, though some designs such as animals and creatures will not be permitted. Imperial Cogs should only be added to characters working as Inquisitors for the Empire.
Arm and Hand Accessories (Optional):
Arm Wraps:
Arm wraps may be worn with a tunic that is sleeved, sleeveless or has three-quarter sleeves. The wraps should be made of an approvable fabric (please see the fabrics section above for a list of options). No Under Armor or athletic elastic material will be allowed, with the exception of boxing wraps, which are allowed so long as the logo patch is removed and the Velcro fasteners are not visible. All arm wraps must be secured so as to not come undone during a performance. Velcro or other method of securing the wraps should be used, though it should not be visible. The method should be shown in a separate submission photo. The color of the wraps should be complementary to the rest of the costume and should reflect colors allowed for tabards.
Bracers:
Bracers cannot have any visible laces or buckles. The bracer must encompass the entire forearm with no visible gap. Bracers can be closed by snaps (must be subdued), industrial Velcro, or magnets. The closure must be hidden on the inner forearm. No etching or designs other than basic lines or borders will be permitted.
Gloves:
Gloves must be made from leather or leather-like material. No rubber gloves, suede gloves, silk or silk-like gloves, motocross gloves, cotton gloves, or workout gloves may be utilized. Gloves should have no logos visible. Sith gloves should generally be black, though red or gray may be used if they complement the costume. Jedi gloves should generally be brown, though alternate earth tone colors such as dark greens may be used if they complement the costume. Gloves should be fitted to the member’s hand without excess material or bagginess, and should not impede wielding of the saber. The cuff and the hand portion of the glove should appear to be of the same material and should not have different finishes. Fingerless gloves are permitted. Gloves are permitted as suitable arm coverings for sleeveless costumes, provided that they have cuffs that come up at least to the mid forearm. If the GGCs are unable to determine whether you can safely perform in your gloves, you may be requested to provide a video of a demonstration of your ability to wield a saber wearing your gloves or hand wear.
Armlets:
Armlets may be used in place of wraps. They may be made of fabric similar to the undertunic instead of leather. These should be further tailored to ensure proper fit and avoid a baggy look. The color of the armlets should be complementary to the rest of the costume and should reflect colors allowed for tabards.
Arm wraps may be worn with a tunic that is sleeved, sleeveless or has three-quarter sleeves. The wraps should be made of an approvable fabric (please see the fabrics section above for a list of options). No Under Armor or athletic elastic material will be allowed, with the exception of boxing wraps, which are allowed so long as the logo patch is removed and the Velcro fasteners are not visible. All arm wraps must be secured so as to not come undone during a performance. Velcro or other method of securing the wraps should be used, though it should not be visible. The method should be shown in a separate submission photo. The color of the wraps should be complementary to the rest of the costume and should reflect colors allowed for tabards.
Bracers:
Bracers cannot have any visible laces or buckles. The bracer must encompass the entire forearm with no visible gap. Bracers can be closed by snaps (must be subdued), industrial Velcro, or magnets. The closure must be hidden on the inner forearm. No etching or designs other than basic lines or borders will be permitted.
Gloves:
Gloves must be made from leather or leather-like material. No rubber gloves, suede gloves, silk or silk-like gloves, motocross gloves, cotton gloves, or workout gloves may be utilized. Gloves should have no logos visible. Sith gloves should generally be black, though red or gray may be used if they complement the costume. Jedi gloves should generally be brown, though alternate earth tone colors such as dark greens may be used if they complement the costume. Gloves should be fitted to the member’s hand without excess material or bagginess, and should not impede wielding of the saber. The cuff and the hand portion of the glove should appear to be of the same material and should not have different finishes. Fingerless gloves are permitted. Gloves are permitted as suitable arm coverings for sleeveless costumes, provided that they have cuffs that come up at least to the mid forearm. If the GGCs are unable to determine whether you can safely perform in your gloves, you may be requested to provide a video of a demonstration of your ability to wield a saber wearing your gloves or hand wear.
Armlets:
Armlets may be used in place of wraps. They may be made of fabric similar to the undertunic instead of leather. These should be further tailored to ensure proper fit and avoid a baggy look. The color of the armlets should be complementary to the rest of the costume and should reflect colors allowed for tabards.
Other Accessories (Optional):
Cloaks/Robes:
Cloaks, robes, capes, cowls, and ponchos may be colors from primary pantones. Cloaks should be either brushing the ground or no more than 2 inches above the ground. As per all classic prequel saber battles, we recommend de-cloaking prior to any stage combat for safety reasons. Sleeves of the tunic should not show below the sleeve of the cloak when arms are hanging naturally by the sides. Sleeveless Anakin style robes, however, are permitted. Hood should be large, and should sit in folds on either shoulder. Hoods should not have a pointed top and should not look as though they came out of Assassin’s Creed. Cloaks/robes should be voluminous, but should not be so large that the applicant gets “lost” in it. Witches cloaks/robes, vampire cloaks, or bathrobes are not approvable. The rule for hoods extends to hooded tunics and vest-style tabards aswell.
Capes:
Capes are currently restricted to Sith. They should be made of approvable fabrics, can be varying lengths, and should not be closed at the neck. They should go over the shoulder when worn at rest. They should be fastened to the costume in a manner that prevents it from hugging the throat during performances, or have an easy release for removal before a fight. Suggested fasteners include a chain such as Count Dooku or Darth Vader. Hidden fasteners such as with Kylo Ren are also allowed.
Ponchos:
Ponchos are allowed, but should be used sparingly as most characters with ponchos wear them in extreme conditions. Robes/Cloaks/Capes should be the first choice for accessorizing the costume. Designs on ponchos must be restricted to basic geometric shapes and must be in colors appropriate to the Jedi or Sith. Ponchos are a robe/cloak/cape replacement and not an outer tunic replacement.
Cowls:
Cowls, like ponchos, are permitted as a replacement for a robe/cloak/cape. Cowls not extend significantly below the shoulders, and should be made of textured fabrics of the types used for tunics. They may be colors from the primary pantone. Face-character specific cowls (such as Kylo Ren’s TFA cowl) are not permitted.
Armor:
Armor should be recognizably Star Wars themed. Overall best approvable options would be vacuum formed ABS, like that of 501st approved Stormtrooper and Clone trooper armor. Also, acceptable materials would be sintra or styrene plastics, which are able to be cut and shaped by heat, cast resin and fiberglass armor. Worbla is a thermoplastic, which is easily shaped with a heat gun. While Worbla is approvable, it can warp in the heat. It may not be advisable in certain regions due to climates, temperatures and seasonal changes. All armor designs should be preapproved by the GCCs before submission.
EVA and other forms of foam armor are not an approvable material for armor. Clone Wars armor and Sith Inquisitor armor are exceptions to the general heraldry rule. The Jedi logo and Imperial Cog, respectively, are approved for use on these armor pieces. All other symbols should be cleared with the GCCs and will be approved on a case by case basis by the GCCs.
Masks:
Masks are limited to a handful of options. Sith Acolyte masks and Temple Guard masks are allowed, with augmented versions of the Temple Guard mask usable for Sith. Masks created by certain species found in Star Wars are allowed to be used for that species. Masks that are able to fully mimic the appearance of an alien species are also allowed. Veils can be considered for Miraluka characters so long as they are designed to cover the eyes specifically. Masks should be worn with a hood so that any straps used to secure them in place are not visible. Other masks found from Star Wars sources may be considered on a case by case basis.
Airsoft masks are never allowed. Soft masks that are similar to the “Ninja” style are not allowed, unless creating a character of a Species that use something similar, such as the Kage species as found in the Clone Wars.
GCCs may ask for a video of a demonstration of your ability to move and perform within your armor/mask. If it is determined that you cannot safely perform in your mask/armor, you may berequested to alter the armor/mask for safety concerns. Armor and Masks that are determined not to be safe for choreography may be designated as “Trooping only” accessories to the costume.
Cloaks, robes, capes, cowls, and ponchos may be colors from primary pantones. Cloaks should be either brushing the ground or no more than 2 inches above the ground. As per all classic prequel saber battles, we recommend de-cloaking prior to any stage combat for safety reasons. Sleeves of the tunic should not show below the sleeve of the cloak when arms are hanging naturally by the sides. Sleeveless Anakin style robes, however, are permitted. Hood should be large, and should sit in folds on either shoulder. Hoods should not have a pointed top and should not look as though they came out of Assassin’s Creed. Cloaks/robes should be voluminous, but should not be so large that the applicant gets “lost” in it. Witches cloaks/robes, vampire cloaks, or bathrobes are not approvable. The rule for hoods extends to hooded tunics and vest-style tabards aswell.
Capes:
Capes are currently restricted to Sith. They should be made of approvable fabrics, can be varying lengths, and should not be closed at the neck. They should go over the shoulder when worn at rest. They should be fastened to the costume in a manner that prevents it from hugging the throat during performances, or have an easy release for removal before a fight. Suggested fasteners include a chain such as Count Dooku or Darth Vader. Hidden fasteners such as with Kylo Ren are also allowed.
Ponchos:
Ponchos are allowed, but should be used sparingly as most characters with ponchos wear them in extreme conditions. Robes/Cloaks/Capes should be the first choice for accessorizing the costume. Designs on ponchos must be restricted to basic geometric shapes and must be in colors appropriate to the Jedi or Sith. Ponchos are a robe/cloak/cape replacement and not an outer tunic replacement.
Cowls:
Cowls, like ponchos, are permitted as a replacement for a robe/cloak/cape. Cowls not extend significantly below the shoulders, and should be made of textured fabrics of the types used for tunics. They may be colors from the primary pantone. Face-character specific cowls (such as Kylo Ren’s TFA cowl) are not permitted.
Armor:
Armor should be recognizably Star Wars themed. Overall best approvable options would be vacuum formed ABS, like that of 501st approved Stormtrooper and Clone trooper armor. Also, acceptable materials would be sintra or styrene plastics, which are able to be cut and shaped by heat, cast resin and fiberglass armor. Worbla is a thermoplastic, which is easily shaped with a heat gun. While Worbla is approvable, it can warp in the heat. It may not be advisable in certain regions due to climates, temperatures and seasonal changes. All armor designs should be preapproved by the GCCs before submission.
EVA and other forms of foam armor are not an approvable material for armor. Clone Wars armor and Sith Inquisitor armor are exceptions to the general heraldry rule. The Jedi logo and Imperial Cog, respectively, are approved for use on these armor pieces. All other symbols should be cleared with the GCCs and will be approved on a case by case basis by the GCCs.
Masks:
Masks are limited to a handful of options. Sith Acolyte masks and Temple Guard masks are allowed, with augmented versions of the Temple Guard mask usable for Sith. Masks created by certain species found in Star Wars are allowed to be used for that species. Masks that are able to fully mimic the appearance of an alien species are also allowed. Veils can be considered for Miraluka characters so long as they are designed to cover the eyes specifically. Masks should be worn with a hood so that any straps used to secure them in place are not visible. Other masks found from Star Wars sources may be considered on a case by case basis.
Airsoft masks are never allowed. Soft masks that are similar to the “Ninja” style are not allowed, unless creating a character of a Species that use something similar, such as the Kage species as found in the Clone Wars.
GCCs may ask for a video of a demonstration of your ability to move and perform within your armor/mask. If it is determined that you cannot safely perform in your mask/armor, you may berequested to alter the armor/mask for safety concerns. Armor and Masks that are determined not to be safe for choreography may be designated as “Trooping only” accessories to the costume.
approved one of a kind masks:
Makeup/Wig/Alien features:
Any facial tattoos or other makeup designs must be done using high quality stage makeup. Any wigs need to be high quality and should be in color scheme with the costume. Video footage showing that a member can properly secure their wig to avoid it flying off or becoming a hazard during choreography should be included with submission. Any prosthetics horns/tails/etc. should be from existing races in Star Wars canon or Legends. Cross breeds (half human, half alien) are not allowed unless explicitly depicted in an official SW source (see Appropriate Sources below). Also remember - you need to be able to fight in it. Lekku and Togruta head pieces must be made from latex or silicone. Fabric and vinyl headpieces are not permitted and will take away from the quality of your costume. Zabrak horns must be evenly spaced on the head, and painted to appear bone-like. They must be adhered to the head securely using appropriate stage adhesive to avoid slipping. Makeup only needs to be resubmitted if it is alien. I.E. if you are changing from blue eyeliner to green or you change your hairstyle i.e. from a ponytail to pigtails or hair color you do not have to resubmit. These will not count towards the % change in your costume.
Saber Guild recognizes that, regardless of media representation, trans and intersex people exist in the world and in our organization. As such, sexual dimorphism will never be enforced in approval of generic aliens. Any combination of traits shown on an alien species will be permitted, regardless of gender.
Contacts are considered to be a medical device and will never be required for approval of any costume in Saber Guild. Costumers who choose to use cosmetic contacts do so at their own risk.
Saber Guild recognizes that, regardless of media representation, trans and intersex people exist in the world and in our organization. As such, sexual dimorphism will never be enforced in approval of generic aliens. Any combination of traits shown on an alien species will be permitted, regardless of gender.
Contacts are considered to be a medical device and will never be required for approval of any costume in Saber Guild. Costumers who choose to use cosmetic contacts do so at their own risk.
Tattoos:
Visible tattoos are not allowed. Tattoos must either be covered up by the costume or covered up any time you are in costume. The one exception is if a Face Character has a specific tattoo; then that specific tattoo will be allowed while you are portraying that specific face character.
If a given species has tattoos then temporary designs based on what is found in source material is allowed. Examples of species that have tattoos include: Zabrak, Mirialan, and Pantoran.
If a given species has tattoos then temporary designs based on what is found in source material is allowed. Examples of species that have tattoos include: Zabrak, Mirialan, and Pantoran.
Jewelry:
We strongly recommend removal of all rings for safety concerns during performance for member safety. An injury to the finger can cause swelling and force medical attention to remove the ring. Necklaces are not to be used in a traditional costume. Necklaces can be distracting, swing dangerously, and are generally not found in the Star Wars universe in traditional Jedi/Sith costumes. Alien headpiece jewelry can be used for canon characters (i.e., Clone Wars Ahsoka headpiece jewelry).
Star War References:
When stepping away from the traditional Jedi/Sith please reference your concepts with sourced Star Wars materials. We would like three pictures sent with your submission.
Acceptable Sources include the following:
Not Acceptable Sources include customized video game characters (SWTOR) and Deviantart/fan art.
Notes on Canon Characters:
Canon characters are approvable and have their own specific guidelines. They should be considered for trooping only unless a show/performance can incorporate their presence logically and thematically. Guidelines for these characters can be found on the 501st and Rebel Legion costuming pages, we use their standards with necessary modifications for performance purposes
Notes on Trooping-Only Costumes:
A costume may be designated as a Trooping-Only Costume. This restriction can be put into place by the GCCs, Membership Director, or Global Council based on several safety factors:
Acceptable Sources include the following:
- Movies
- TV series (Clone Wars/Rebels)
- Comic books
- Video game face characters
Not Acceptable Sources include customized video game characters (SWTOR) and Deviantart/fan art.
Notes on Canon Characters:
Canon characters are approvable and have their own specific guidelines. They should be considered for trooping only unless a show/performance can incorporate their presence logically and thematically. Guidelines for these characters can be found on the 501st and Rebel Legion costuming pages, we use their standards with necessary modifications for performance purposes
Notes on Trooping-Only Costumes:
A costume may be designated as a Trooping-Only Costume. This restriction can be put into place by the GCCs, Membership Director, or Global Council based on several safety factors:
- Costume is determined to be restrictive in movement
- Costume is determined to have limited vision
- Costume is determined to have a hindrance to safely weld a saber
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